Opposite cities, unforgettable meals, and finding warmth on gray days
This is the first post in a three-part Kim’s Kurations series highlighting my experience in Portugal. I’m sharing it as I experienced it. My approach is slow and thoughtful. I focus on what stayed with me most.
This first post focuses on Where to Eat & Stay. The next will explore Design & Art. The final post will be a more personal reflection on what Portugal meant to me creatively.
Portugal greeted us exactly as forecasted windy, rainy and gray. But we were determined not to let weather dictate the experience.
We came prepared. We had weatherproof boots and sneakers. An all-weather coat fell below the knees with a hood. We wore jeans and layered tees with crewnecks and turtlenecks. Two small umbrellas were tucked into our bags. Warm, dry, and mobile — which turned out to be everything.
Despite the clouds, Portugal delivered something far richer than sunshine: comfort, flavor, and atmosphere.
Getting There: Lisbon to Porto by Train
We landed in Lisbon and promptly hopped on the high-speed train to Porto. The ride was scenic and smooth. It was surprisingly affordable. We enjoyed rolling countryside and soft winter light. It was a calm start to the trip.
Once in Porto, a quick Uber brought us straight to our hotel.
PORTO: Cozy, Culinary, and Comforting
Where We Stayed
We stayed at the InterContinental Porto – Palácio das Cardosas, right in the heart of the old town.
The location couldn’t have been better. It was centrally located and walkable to major sights, restaurants, and shopping. Our window offered beautiful views that made even rainy mornings feel romantic.
Each day started with the hotel’s breakfast buffet, included thanks to our American Express perk and it quickly became a highlight:
- Excellent coffee
- Fresh pastries and breads
- Eggs prepared multiple ways
- Cheeses, fruits, and other thoughtful offerings
It was the breakfast that fueled slow mornings and long walks.
First Day Orientation
After a quick nap, we wanted to get oriented, so we booked a tuk-tuk tour around the city. It was the perfect introduction. Our guide pointed out major landmarks and shared history. It helped us understand the layout of Porto, so the rest of our days felt effortless.
How We Ate
We naturally skipped formal lunches most days, opting instead to graze, which felt very Portuguese:
- Pastel de nata from Manteigaria
- Bacalhau fritters with a glass of port
- A casual crêpe from the local Porto market, known for its seafood, flowers, cheeses, meats, and pastries
Everything felt fresh and that makes sense when you’re never far from the sea.
Mercado do Bolhão
No food experience in Porto feels complete without a visit to Mercado do Bolhão. Originally opened in 1914, this historic market has long been the heart of everyday Porto life. After a thoughtful restoration, Bolhão has retained its soul, local vendors, family-run stalls, and generations-old relationships. While feeling refreshed and welcoming.
Inside, you’ll find an abundance of fresh seafood. There is also seasonal produce, cheeses, cured meats, flowers, and baked goods.
The atmosphere is lively but genuine, filled with the rhythm of daily shopping rather than spectacle. It’s where Porto shops, eats, and connects.
This connection beautifully reflects why the city’s food culture feels so honest. It is deeply rooted.
Dinner Highlights in Porto
Dinner in Porto was spectacular, but the standout was OMA.
OMA is intimate, led by Chef Luis Moreira and his partner, Ana Silveira. Oma means grandmother in German. The restaurant, which received a Bib Gourmand (2025), is quaint with just eight tables. It evokes a cozy and warm feeling. Every single table was filled. The room buzzed with conversation in multiple languages. It felt like a gathering of food lovers from all over the world.
We opted for the five-course tasting menu with wine pairing, which was impressively affordable for the quality and experience.
Every course felt intentional, thoughtful, and deeply connected to place. It was one of those meals you don’t rush and don’t forget.
Time Out Market, Fava Tonka & the World’s Most Beautiful McDonald’s
One stop that perfectly captures Porto’s mix of history and modern culture is Time Out Market Porto. Much like its Lisbon counterpart, this market brings together high-quality food, wine, and local culinary talent in one energetic space. It’s an easy, casual way to sample the city. It’s perfect for wine, cheese, and small plates. You can enjoy these without committing to a full sit-down meal.
Inside the market in Porto, Fava Tonka is a must-try led by Chef Nuno Castro. The concept is modern Portuguese cuisine with global influence. The menu is thoughtful, refined comfort food that feels elevated yet approachable.
The menu focuses on bold flavors, seasonal ingredients, and beautifully composed dishes that show Portugal’s culinary evolution. It’s the kind of place where technique meets creativity. Everything feels intentional without being overly formal. It’s perfect for lingering over a glass of wine while soaking in the market’s energy.
Just a short walk away is something completely unexpected. It is McDonald’s Imperial. This location is often called the most beautiful McDonald’s in the world. And honestly? The title fits.
Housed in a former Belle Époque café, the space features stained glass chandeliers, ornate woodwork, and sculptural details. It also boasts soaring ceilings. This is more reminiscent of a historic European café than a fast-food restaurant. It’s a perfect example of how Porto honors its architectural past, even in the most surprising places. Whether you stop in for coffee or just to admire the interior, it’s absolutely worth seeing.
Together, these stops show what makes Porto special. It offers historic beauty and great food. The city layers tradition with modern life effortlessly.
LISBON: Elevated Dining & Creative Energy
Where We Stayed
In Lisbon, we stayed at the Palácio Ludovice Wine Experience Hotel. It is located in Chiado, a charming, upscale neighborhood. Chiado is filled with scenic viewpoints, hidden cafés, and beautiful shops.
The hotel itself is a destination, blending history, design, and wine culture seamlessly.
A First Afternoon at Cervejaria Trindade
On our first afternoon in Lisbon, we chose an atmospheric place to begin our journey. We chose Cervejaria Trindade (The Trindade Beer Hall). It is the oldest and most beautiful beer hall in Portugal, established in 1836.
The setting alone is unforgettable. The restaurant occupies what was once the Santíssima Trindade Convent, originally founded in the 13th century. Dining here you are surrounded by stunning 19th-century painted azulejo panels. These panels line the walls from floor to ceiling. The space feels grand yet welcoming and historic without being intimidating.
The food reflects the same sense of tradition and care. Alongside exceptionally good beer, Trindade serves classic Portuguese cuisine and incredibly fresh seafood, prepared simply and generously. It’s the kind of place where you quickly understand why locals and visitors alike feel so well looked after. Everything from the setting to the service invites you to slow down. It encourages you to settle in.
It was the perfect first meal in Lisbon. It was immersive, comforting, and deeply rooted in history. This experience reminds us that in Portugal, dining is as much about place as it is about food.
Dinner at Ofício
On our second night in Lisbon, we dined at Ofício, Bib Gourmand (2025) led by Chef Hugo Candeias . The restaurant perfectly balances modern Portuguese cuisine with warmth. It exudes approachability and exceptional quality at a more accessible price point. That distinction felt well deserved. The food was thoughtful, beautifully executed, and deeply satisfying without feeling formal or intimidating.
Cuisine & Style
The cuisine at Ofício is contemporary Portuguese, rooted in tradition but interpreted with a lighter, more modern hand. The menu highlights:
- Seasonal, locally sourced ingredients
- Clean flavors with subtle creativity
- Comfort-forward dishes elevated through technique
Seafood plays a starring role, alongside carefully prepared meats and vegetables. Everything felt intentional but unfussy — the kind of food that invites conversation and lingering at the table.
Typical pricing:
- À la carte mains
- Wine list: thoughtfully curated, with excellent Portuguese selections at approachable prices
For a Michelin-recognized restaurant in Lisbon, Ofício delivers outstanding value, refined dining without excess.
Dining Our Way Through Lisbon
We experienced one of the most memorable dining concepts in Lisbon. It was Bairro do Avillez. This was created by the acclaimed Portuguese chef José Avillez.
Bairro do Avillez is located in Chiado. It is not a single restaurant. It is a collection of distinct dining experiences under one roof. Each one has its own mood, menu, and personality. This neighborhood, or bairro, is where each stop offers something different.
Bairro do Avillez
Restaurants within Bairro do Avillez:
- Páteo: Specializes in seafood, fish, and, traditionally, roasted pork, featuring a bright, airy setting.
- Taberna: Offers creative, high-quality Portuguese petiscos (tapas) in a lively, rustic, deli-style atmosphere.
- Mini Bar: A gastronomic gastro-pub featuring surprising, theatrical small plates and cocktails.
- Pizzaria Lisboa: A family-friendly spot serving gourmet pizzas.
- The venue also features a “Mercearia” (gourmet shop). It is highly regarded for its artistic decor.
What makes Bairro do Avillez special is how seamlessly it blends approachability with culinary excellence. You can dress it up or keep it casual. You can linger over wine or stop in for a quick bite. All this happens while experiencing the culinary point of view of one of Portugal’s most influential chefs.
Dining here felt very Lisbon: social, layered, and unpretentious, yet deeply thoughtful. It’s a place that encourages you to return more than once and experience it differently each time.
Time Out Market Lisbon
We also visited Time Out Market Lisboa, which deserves special mention.
This isn’t a typical food hall. It’s a curated collection of Portugal’s best chefs and concepts. This venue offers consistently high-quality food, excellent wine, and an energetic atmosphere. It’s ideal for tasting multiple flavors in one stop.
A Perfect Final Night at Federico’s
Our final night in Lisbon was spent dining at Federico’s. It is the restaurant inside the Palácio Ludovice Wine Experience Hotel. It was the most fitting way to end the trip.
We opted for an unusual and incredibly memorable concept: a completely off-menu dining experience. The chef collaborates with the Sommelier. Together, they create a three-course menu. It includes wine pairings, all designed as a surprise. Nothing is selected in advance. You simply trust the process and it pays off.
I let them know that I am pescatarian, and my husband eats meat. What impressed me most was that we weren’t given variations of the same menu. We were each served entirely different dishes and entirely different wines. These were thoughtfully paired to our individual meals.
Each course arrived with a brief explanation of the dish. There was also a story behind the wine. It included its origin, character, and why it was chosen. The pacing was relaxed, the service attentive without being intrusive, and every bite felt intentional.
The food was truly delicious, the wine pairings beautifully considered, and the experience felt elevated yet approachable. Most surprising of all it was not unaffordable, especially given the level of personalization and care.
It was a warm, intimate, and unforgettable way to close our time in Portugal. It was the kind of meal that doesn’t just end a vacation. It anchors it in memory.
Porto: Where to Stay & Eat
Where to Stay
- InterContinental Porto – Palácio das Cardosas is my preferred place to stay in Porto. Located in the heart of the historic center. It’s walkable to major sights, restaurants, and shopping, making the city feel effortless to explore. The rooms offer scenic views that feel especially cozy on rainy days. The elegant and timeless interiors beautifully reflect Porto’s character. The daily breakfast buffet — particularly valuable when included through American Express perks made mornings easy and indulgent. Setting the tone for unhurried days in the city.
Where to Eat
- OMA
An intimate, Michelin-recognized dining experience with modern Portuguese cuisine, seasonal ingredients, and a thoughtfully curated tasting menu. A must for food lovers. - Fava Tonka (Time Out Market Porto)
Elevated, contemporary comfort food is served in a lively casual setting. It’s a great way to experience Porto’s modern culinary scene without a formal sit-down. - Time Out Market Porto
Ideal for wine, cheese, and grazing. High-quality offerings in a casual, energetic environment. - Mercado do Bolhão
A historic market and a window into everyday Porto life. It is perfect for experiencing local ingredients, seafood, cheeses, and flowers. - McDonald’s Imperial
Worth visiting purely for the architecture. It is often called the most beautiful McDonald’s in the world. The restaurant is housed in a former Belle Époque café.
Lisbon: Where to Stay & Eat
Where to Stay
- Palácio Ludovice Wine Experience Hotel
Located in Chiado, this boutique hotel blends history, design, and wine culture beautifully. Close to shops, viewpoints, and hidden cafés and a destination in itself.
Where to Eat
- Cervejaria Trindade (The Trindade Beer Hall)
A perfect first stop in Lisbon. Established in 1836 in a former convent, with stunning azulejo-lined walls, excellent beer, traditional Portuguese cuisine, and fresh seafood. - Ofício
Michelin Bib Gourmand–recognized contemporary Portuguese cuisine with a refined yet approachable feel. Excellent value for the quality. - Bairro do Avillez
A unique dining concept in Chiado. It offers multiple restaurants under one roof, ranging from casual to refined. All are led by José Avillez. - Federico’s
Located inside Palácio Ludovice, this off-menu chef-and-sommelier surprise pairing experience is unforgettable. It is a perfect way to end a Lisbon stay. - Time Out Market Lisboa
This is a curated collection of Lisbon’s best chefs and concepts. It is ideal for sampling a wide range of Portuguese food and wine in one place.
Portugal reminded me that even under gray skies, warmth comes from how you eat. It also comes from where you stay. It comes from how you allow yourself to slow down.
